Berlin Shopping

Although redevelopment is ongoing Berlin has emerged as a major modern shopping destination in recent years. Several new malls have sprung up and the optimism that reunification engendered is still evident in the exuberant spending of the population. The city still has some way to go until it can compete with the likes of Paris and Milan but shoppers won't be disappointed by the range and variety of stores in the city centre.

You should take note of Germany's public holidays when stores may be closed, although this is unlikely to affect the major outlets in the city centre.

Best Areas

The East Berlin esplanade that is Friedrichstrasse is the city's main shopping drag, the equivalent of Oxford Street or the Champs Elysées, although Berliners argue that it is far superior to either. It is here that you'll find designer names like Gucci and Donna Karan, the department store Galeries Lafayette, and a number of chain stores, as well as a smattering of chic cafés.

The West's Kurfürstendamm (Ku'damm) shopping district is still statistically the number one destination for shoppers in the city, but has noticeably suffered as a result of the Friedrichstrasse renaissance. However the Ku'damm is beginning to strike back with its own designer stores mixed with larger modern retail outlets (the Niketown megastore on Tauentzienstrasse was the first in Europe). The Ku'damm area also has a higher percentage of high street stalwarts than the exclusive Friedrichstrasse while the small side streets hide designer boutiques and specialist stores. In terms of department stores, good options in the city are Karstadt (Wilmerdorfer Strasse 118), Kaufhof (Alexander Platz 9) and Wertheim (Kurfürstendamm 231).

Berlin really holds its own though when it comes to more quirky shops. Head for Hackescher Markt and the surrounding area, or to Prenzlauer Berg (in particular Oderberger Strasse and Kastanienallee) for some great original boutiques, stocking retro clothing and household objects as well as original modern fashions, many of them made by young local designers. One of the most charming of these is Kauf Dich Glücklich! on Oderberger Strasse, a colourful mishmash of retro boutique cum café.

Finally, it is worth visiting Nikolaiviertel, a reconstructed historical district which had been virtually destroyed in WWII. Here you will find carefully reconstructed buildings reflecting architectual styles from the middle ages alongside wonderfully preserved neoclassical buildings such as the Ephraim-Palais. There are plenty of interesting museums, the Nikolai church and many small shops selling souvenirs, arts and antiques. This area is located close to Alexandreplatz.

Shopping Malls

Practically a mall in its own right, the crown prince of Berlin's department stores is the Kaufhaus des Westens, or the KaDeWe. As the establishment will go to pains to inform you, it is the largest department store in the whole of Europe and boasts the largest delicatessen on the continent. Here you can find all the sections you'd expect from a top-range store including perfumes, designer clothes and fine goods. The KaDeWe stands in a bold grandly styled building on Tauentzienstrasse.

Shoppers from both sides of Berlin can't resist the allure of the ultra-modern developments since reunification. Arkaden in Potsdamer Platz opened in 1998 and is the best known and the most popular of this new breed of shopping malls. Alexanderplatz and Ostbahnhof both also house large shopping centres. All these offer regular chain stores in rather sanitised environments but certainly have plenty to choose from if that's what you're after.

A new three-store shopping mall called ALEXA has been opened in the famous Alexanderplatz and along with Rathaus passages and the department store Galeria this creates a lively shopping mile.

Markets

Some of Berlin's most interesting shopping is on offer at its numerous flea markets where the more raffish side of Berlin is on show. The Berliner Antik & Flohmarkt (Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse) is home to a popular antique market every day bar Tuesday. The Kunst und Nostalgie Markt (Museum Island) on Saturdays and Sundays is the place to stock up on all that Communist-chic GDR memorabilia. Meanwhile Zille-Hof (Fasanenstrasse 14) is in the spirit of a true flea market with everything imaginable on sale. At weekends Strasse des 17 Juni, just west of the Tiergarten, turns into an emormous fleamarket selling everything imaginable from early in the morning until late afternoon.

Not as recognised as Paris, London or Milan as a fashion centre, Berlin can nonetheless almost match its European rivals for designer clothing and top of the range merchandise as well as quirky one-offs.

Traditionally, Berlin was famed for its chocolate production. You can still make the most of this heritage at Rausch und Fassbinder in Don Gendarmenmarkt, which has a fantastic array of all things rich and chocolatey in a beautiful, old-fashioned shop.

More exclusive is the local porcelain KPM, which is sold in department stores and tends to be very traditional - and also very expensive.

Otherwise, there are few real unique Berlin products, but Cold War memorabilia makes a popular souvenir. Pieces of the Berlin Wall are still on sale, although it's been over a decade since the wall came down. With no sign of the supply of souvenir rubble slackening it doesn't take a genius to work out that many pieces probably aren't exactly the genuine article.

Other popular Cold War souvenirs from East Berlin include Russian-style army hats and Communist party flags. The flea and antique markets are also good places to obtain the everyday objects left over from Communist East Germany, increasingly becoming retro-fashion desirables in the capitalist world.

For more traditional antiques, head for Suarezstrasse, where you'll find almost 30 antique shops selling furniture, artwork, ornaments and jewellery.

Shops in the city are open from 09h00-20h00 Mon-Fri and 09h00-16h00 Sat.

A sales tax (VAT) of 16% is levied on most goods and services in Germany. When leaving the country, non-European tourists can apply for a tax refund on any goods bought that are to be exported. The minimum purchase to qualify for a refund is EUR25.

To reclaim tax you need to request a VAT refund request form, when you make a purchase, which states the amount of refund due. Customs officials must stamp these documents as you leave the country and the refund will be processed and sent to you.

Alternatively, you can purchase goods from shops participating in the Europe Tax-free Shopping programme (look out for the Tax-free Shopping logo displayed in the window). Simply show your passport when you make a purchase and you will be given a Tax-free Shopping cheque showing the refund you are owed. As you leave the country, customs officials will stamp your cheques. You can claim your refund from the Europe Tax-free Shopping desk or have it sent to you.